Author Archives: hopandcotton

Neoclair Pro® – Biomimetic antioxidant amplifier

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How would you like to brighten skin tone, supercharge skin with antioxidants and avoid premature ageing? Yes please!

Introducing Neoclair Pro® , a biomimetic peptide by Lipotrue that does all the above by intelligent design.

 

But first, what is a biomimetic peptide?

Biomimetic means to mimic, or copy, something that occurs naturally. A peptide is a very small protein made out of amino acids.

A biomimetic peptide is thus, a small protein our skin recognises and activates certain functions. What exactly does Neoclair Pro® prompt our skin to do? Extensive clinical studies reveal the following.

 

Brighten and Illuminate

  • Improve radiance and luminosity
  • Reduce level of melanin/intensity of dark spots
  • Reduce surface area of dark spots

 

Antioxidant and Antioxidant Amplifier

    • Neutralise free radicals
    • Stimulate production of skin’s own antioxidants
    • Increase protection against oxidative stress

 

Protection from inner and outer pollution

  • Protection from outdoor and indoor pollutants
  • Reduce oxidative stress from internal metabolic processes

 

Prevent premature ageing

  • Protect proteins against glycation (ageing)
  • Prevent cellular membrane and DNA from oxidative damage

 

Repairing and Restoring

  • Restore cell membrane damaged from oxidative stress
  • Improve elasticity and elastic recovery

 

If preventing premature ageing and brightening are your top skin goals, you need Neoclair Pro® ASAP.

For a very limited time, we are supercharging our advanced face moisturiser, The Brilliant with this remarkable peptide. Follow us on Instagram now to find how, and see some amazing data from the studies. You do not want to miss this!

Focus & Fixes – Dark circles

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Matters of the under-eye are complicated. Dark circles is one of them.

Causes of dark circles

Dark circles are caused by a mix of hereditary and external factors. The thinnest of skin around the eyes makes pigmentation from melanin or blood by-product, very obvious. It gets more apparent with age due to skin laxity from the gradual degradation of collagen/elastin.

Daily routine focus

For melanin-related darkness, brightening actives against hyperpigmentation will help. Vitamin C and AHAs have the bonus benefit of promoting collagen synthesis, thickening/strengthening skin around the area.

  • hydroquinione, arbutin – not recommended prolonged usage
  • kojic acid, phytic acid, azelaic acid
  • vitamin C and derivatives
  • vitamin A and derivatives
  • niacinamide (vitamin B3)
  • AHAs – glycolic acid, lactic acid

For blood (or more accurately, bilirubin)-related darkness, certain speciality peptides and plant/marine extracts can help reduce severity.

Sun protection

UV exposure encourages melanin production and skin structure breakdown. Due to the delicate nature of the under-eye, physical sunscreens are recommended over chemical ones. Zinc oxide is particularly great as it protects against both UVA and UVB.

Other tips

Some pigment-related darkness can be greatly improved using Q-switched laser treatments. Although habits alone do not eliminate the circles, it always helps to get enough sleep and keep a healthy diet.

Dark circles are tricky to resolve, but between good eye care, good lifestyle and a kickass concealer, you’re covered!

The Skinshield

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You know you should be using sunscreen daily. But you don’t, because you cannot find one that doesn’t break you out, irritate your skin or feels like something you want to put on your face everyday. Is this you? Me too!

This is why I’ve created The Skinshield.

 

What it is and how it feels like

The Skinshield is a day protectant with 21% zinc oxide, giving broad spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB. Made for the most sensitive and congestion-prone skins, it is formulated without

  • chemical sun filters (this also means no ‘sunscreen smell’)
  • fragrance
  • oils, specifically acnegenic oils/butters/waxes
  • alcohol

Its light-weight, easily spreadable texture allows it to fit seemlessly into the last step of your day routine.

 

Comprehensive Cover

But there’s more to The Skinshield than just being pleasant and easy to use.

We know that UV rays are harmful to skin due to their ability to generate free radicals. These free radicals can damage our skin cells, the most dangerous part being the DNA, as its mutation can result in skin abnormalities and cancers.

Other than protecting against UVA/B, The Skinshield goes the extra mile. It contains a super antioxidant that can neutralise three different types of free radicals, and is also fortified with peptides that protect against and encourage the repair of any DNA damage if it happens. The Skinshield has got you completely covered.

 

Sun protection is a non-negotiable when it comes to anti-ageing, reducing hyperpigmentation, scarring and redness/sensitivity. If you are still looking for a sunscreen you can use, your search is over. It is never too late to be diligent with sun protection, and there is never a better time to start than now with The Skinshield.

Sun Protection FAQs

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Today we’re answering the most frequently asked questions on sun protection.

 

Which is better – physical sunscreen or chemical sunscreen?

If you can tolerate both, the better one is the one you can bring yourself to use consistently. Those very picky with textures might prefer chemical (or hybrid chemical-physical) ones as they are typically more fluid/spreadable than physical ones. They also do not give any white-cast or flashback in photography.

If you have rather sensitive skin, a physical sunscreen will be your better bet as chemical ones can cause irritation (i.e. redness, burning or even lesions resembling breakouts). Those prone to congestion should also pay attention to product texture and amount/types of oils, waxes and film-formers as they all affect the sunscreen’s acnegenic potential.

 

What SPF should I be using daily?

It depends on your day’s physical activity level and length of sun exposure.

If you are mostly indoors with minimal sun exposure/sweating, SPF 20 with broad spectrum protection would be sufficient. If you are always outdoors or engaging in strenuous labour, SPF 50 with broad spectrum protection and constant reapplication is necessary.

 

Is higher SPF always better?

No. Although higher SPF gives higher UVB protection, it also requires a lot more sun filters to achieve the higher SPF. With chemical sunscreens, the higher chemical filter content can mean a greater likelihood to cause reactions or trigger dermatitis.

The increase in amount of UV protection is not directly proportional to the increase in SPF value. Theoretically, SPF 20 protects skin against 95% UVB; SPF 100 protects against 99% UVB. The SPF protection from 20 to 100 only results in 4% more protection, but the amount of filters needed for this increase in SPF value is lot more than 4%.

Broad-spectrum (UVA and UVB) protection and skin compatibility in sunscreens are more important than a very high SPF value .

 

Do I need to wear sunscreen if I’m staying indoors?

It depends on how well the area is shielded from sunlight. It isn’t necessary in a windowless room or one with special UV-coated window. In places with normal glass windows (which only blocks out UVB), ageing UVA rays can still penetrate your skin. So it is still wise to put on sunscreen even if you are not going outside especially if you are concerned with any form of hyperpigmentation.

 

Why do sunscreens break me out?

The breakouts are usually caused by chemical and/or water-resistant sunscreens.

It’s common for chemical sunscreens to be high in oil content as the chemical filters are either oily materials themselves or require rather high amounts of other oils to be completely solubilised. Due to the reactivity of chemical filters, they often give irritation, resulting in lesions appearing as breakouts. Water-resistant formulas (physical or chemical) contain significant levels of heavy oils and film-formers that can easily result in congestion.

It’s also possible to break out with physical sunscreens if it contains oils/waxes or film-formers (used in water-proof formulas) that encourage congestion. Titanium dioxide may also cause breakouts in some rare cases.

 

How much should we be applying?

SPF is a measured using 2mg of product per cm square of skin during testing. For a near equivalent amount of protection as the SPF, we need approximately a quarter teaspoon (1.25ml) of sunscreen for the face alone.

Most of us apply way less than what is used in such test conditions, so we are not actually getting the stated level of protection. It can be quite unpleasant to put on all that sunscreen on at one go. Instead apply in 2 thinner layers to get maximum protection with improved wearability.

 

Do I need to reapply my sunscreen? If so, how often should I do that?

It depends on your sunscreen, how well it stays on your skin and the length of sun exposure.

With minimal sweating/physical activity, where your sunscreen stays on your skin, you don’t need to reapply if you are using a physical sunscreen. With chemical sunscreens, you might need to reapply as its protective capabilities decreases every time you are exposed to the sun.

If you are at the beach, reapply at least every two hours or every time after swimming/towel drying, whether your chemical/physical sunscreen is water-resistant or not.

 

Got more questions on sun protection? Feel free to reach out to us on Instagram or Facebook. We’d love to hear from you!

Physical vs Chemical Sunscreens

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Sunscreens protect us from UV radiation, the biggest contributor to premature skin ageing.

As mentioned previously, sun filters are the ingredients in sunscreens that protect us from UV rays. These filters work using a chemical or physical mechanism that prevent UV from entering our skin.

 

Physical Sun Filters

Physical filters reflect UV radiation from skin’s surface. There are only two physical sun filters to date

  • Zinc oxide: UVA and UVB protection
  • Titanium dioxide: UVB protection

The best feature about physical sun filters is their inertness or non-reactivity, making them suitable for extremely sensitive skins. They provide UV protection for as long as they remain on skin surface.

On the down side, as physical filters are white pigments, they can give a ‘white-cast’ upon application and/or flash photography. Traditionally, they have not been cosmetically elegant due to these pigments being insoluble in both oil and water. Fortunately, technological and engineering advances have gradually alleviated both issues.

 

Chemical sun filters

Chemical filters protect skin by absorbing UV and converting it to heat then releasing it from the skin. Unlike physical filters, there are numerous kinds of chemical filters. Not all of them are legally recognised for use as sun filters globally. Below are some commonly used ones approved in AUS, US and EU. You might recognise them by their common drug names instead of their chemical (INCI) names.

Chemical filters are oil-soluble, thus generally easier to formulate into sunscreens that are more pleasant in texture (more fluid/spreadable) and finish (colourless) compared to their physical counterparts.

However, their reactive nature (absorbing then dissipating UV to heat) means they can cause unwanted reactions such as redness, stinging/burning sensation or rashes. Their protective capability diminishes with amount of sun exposure, thus reapplication is necessary if you are going to spend all day outdoors or engage in physical activities like swimming. Chemical filters also add that characteristic ‘sunscreen smell’ to sunscreens.

Physical and chemical filters each have their own pros and cons. You have the luxury to choose from either one if your skin is not particularly sensitive to products.

What if I always breakout with sunscreens?!

Those with sensitive or acne-prone skin will fare better with physical sunscreens. Those particularly prone to clogged pores might also want to look out for the following features in your daily sunscreen, assuming you spend most of your time indoors

  • Zinc oxide only: Titanium dioxide can sometimes be clogging
  • Oil-free: Acne-causing bacteria/yeast feed on plant oils/butters to grow and thrive
  • Minimal oil thickeners: Too much of these occlusive ingredients (e.g. beeswax, cetearyl alcohol) can be pore-clogging
  • Non-waterproof: High oil content and strong film-formers help sunscreens stick well to skin resisting water; but both contribute to congestion

 

Whether it is physical or chemical, the best sunscreen is the one you can use daily and consistently. If you have never found a sunscreen you can wear without suffering irritation or congestion; or just dislike how they feel, we have just the thing for you coming very soon!

Sun Protection 101

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Sun protection is essential, even if you don’t spend a lot of time outdoors.

Other than painful burns, the sun is also the main cause of premature skin ageing i.e age spots, dullness, wrinkles and chronic dehydration. These signs only creep up on us many years later in our lives, where we will then spend an even longer time trying to reverse the damage.

Why is the sun so detrimental to skin health? How can it affect us even if we are not directly exposed to it?

 

Why is sun protection so important?

The sun emits ultraviolet (UV) light. Amongst this spectrum, the two types of radiation, UVA and UVB, are the most harmful to skin.

UVA and UVB have different wavelengths, thus can penetrate skin to different extents. Simply put, UVB burns us while UVA ages us.

UVB is mostly absorbed in the epidermis. It causes redness (erythema), burning, blistering and peeling depending on the length and extent of exposure. It induces (delayed) tanning by increasing skin’s melanin production due to sun exposure.

UVA penetrates deep into the dermis, capable of destroying its collagen and elastin structure. It is the primary cause of the signs of premature ageing (photo-ageing) such as fine lines, wrinkles, dryness, dehydration, sun/age spots and sagginess due to the loss of elasticity. UVA also causes of immediate skin darkening with exposure, due to the oxidation of existing melanin present in the skin.

Both UVA and UVB are capable of damaging cellular components including DNA, which can result in mutations and skin cancers. Although UVB rays are blocked by materials such as glass and clouds in the sky, UVA can pass through them easily and penetrate the skin. Thus, sun protection is important whether you are indoors or outdoors.

 

How do sunscreens protect us?

Sunscreens contain sun filters that protect us by limiting the sun’s UV radiation from penetrating the skin.

There are two types of sun filters, physical and chemical, that prevent UV from entering the skin. Their mechanisms are different: (i) physical sun filters reflect UV rays; (ii)chemical sun filters absorb then convert UV radiation to heat.

 

How is sun protection measured?

UVB protection is measured using SPF (sun protection factor) values. A higher SPF gives a higher level of UVB protection, though this value is not directly proportional to the extent of protection – i.e SPF 20 protects against 95% UVB, while SPF 50 protects against 98% UVB.

UVA protection measurement, unlike UVB, is not universal. Different parts of the world use different methods to measure the level of UVA protection. Most of Australia, USA and Europe use a pass/fail system – products that pass carry a ‘UVA’ logo or indication. Asia and UK adopt grading systems like PA (+ to ++++) and Boots Star ratings respectively.

Broad spectrum protection means protection from both UVA and UVB, that is essential for protection against both burning and ageing effects of the sun.

Limitations of SPF/UVA indications

Although SPF/UVA measurements are useful indicators, the extent of protection we end up receiving is not actually the stated values, as it is difficult to account for the following variations. They are why we usually end up receiving a ‘lower than stated’ level of sun protection

  • Amount used: Many of us apply less than the prescribed amount used in SPF/UVA testings
  • Uniformity: Not applied evenly across all areas of exposed skin
  • Inherent sun sensitivity: Fair skins with less melanin are more prone to UVB burns than dark skins
  • Skin substantivity: How well the sunscreen stays on skin after application
  • Type/duration of activity carried out after: Sweating (with swimming/running etc) allows sunscreen to come off easily

 

Sun protection is not only a true anti-ageing measure, but is also imperative for skin health. Since sunscreen should be a daily essential, where do we start in deciding which to use? That’s coming up next, so don’t go anywhere!

Lip Care FAQs

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Is my lip balm making me an addict? Can the dry lip vicious cycle ever be broken?

Today we’ll answer questions all about lips!

My skin isn’t dry whatsoever, but why are my lips so chapped all the time?

It doesn’t matter how oily your face is, your lips won’t be the same. Unlike facial skin, lips do not produce any sebum and is a lot thinner. Its thinnest and lack of natural oils make lips exceptionally prone to dryness.

What’s the fastest way to heal dry, cracked lips?

If your lips are in a dire state, gently remove any peeling skin using a wet cotton pad with circular motions. Be diligent with your lip balm application throughout the day, including a generous layer before bed. Try not to lick your lips – it dries them out further!

The quality of your lip balm matters. Choose one with barrier-forming, conditioning and water-attracting ingredients.

Is my lip balm making me an addict? Will applying lip balm dry my lips out more?

Lip balm addiction is not really a thing. Lip balms usually contain oils that create a barrier over lips to prevent them from drying out. This barrier won’t actually cause your lips to ‘dry out further’ leading to ‘addiction’ or constant reapplication.

If you are experiencing chronic dryness/cracks, it is likely that you are allergic to something in your lip balm. Avoid ingredients that give a cooling sensation, act as fragrance/flavour or chemical filters providing SPF. Examples include menthol, camphor, phenol, peppermint, mint, lime, orange, avobenzone, octinoxate etc.

Why are my lips so prone to chapping and cracking?

Our lips are very much thinner than other parts of our face. This makes it very prone to dryness and extra sensitive to irritants. If you have chronically dry, cracking lips, avoid these potential
irritants in your lip balm such as menthol, camphor, any fragrances/flavours (natural or not) and even chemical sun filters.

My lips are finally in a good place! What’s the best way to keep them in good condition?

Prevention is better than cure. Continue to be use a generous layer of your favourite lip balm at least once daily before bed. Don’t wait until they are cracked or chapped!

The Making of A Lip Balm

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The skin on our lips is different from the rest of our face.

If you are chronically chapped, you will know that not all lip balms are made equal, although they might all look or feel similar.

Good vs Great

A great lip balm provides more than temporary relief. It will

  1. Form a protective barrier

    Shields against the environmental elements

  2. Condition lips

    Eliminates cracks/flakiness/dryness

  3. Attract water

    Directly increases lip’s moisture levels

  4. Be free of potential skin irritants

    Avoid common irritants as lips are particularly thin and thus extra vulnerable

What to look out for

Since balms are purely made out of oils, a great lip balm will contain a variety of oils to achieve everything discussed above.

  • Barrier-forming occlusives

    Waxy/heavy emollients – beeswax and its derivatives

  • Nourishing and softening oils

    Rich but fluid oils (at room temperature) – castor, jojoba, coconut oil

  • Dual-purpose emollients

    Also act as humectants to increase water content – lanolin and its derivatives

Additionally, it is also free of

  • Fragrances and flavours

    Natural essential oils – mint (peppermint, spearmint), eucalyptus, cinnamon, grapefruit, orange, lemon oils
    Synthetic fragrances or flavours

  • Cooling agents

    Gives a cooling sensation – menthol, camphor, phenol

The Exceptional Balm

The best lip balm is precisely formulated to include and exclude particular materials.

If you don’t feel like sieving through ingredient list after list, look no further than The Lipguard. With an intelligent fusion of oils, it is everything an exceptional balm should be.

Lowdown on Lips

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Lips are easily the most neglected part of our face.

Although they look nothing like facial skin, they are in similar in some ways.

Structural similarities and differences

Like the skin of our face, skin on lips are also consists of 2 main layers – (outer) epidermal layer and (inner) dermal layer.

Unlike facial skin, lips

  • Are much thinner

    The lips’ outermost layer of epidermis (stratum corneum) is about 5 times thinner than that of normal facial skin.

  • Does not produce oil

    As lips lack oil glands, they do not produce oil (sebum). They are also free from hair and sweat glands.

  • Are less pigmented

    Lips have much less pigment (melanin), which means they are not as coloured as the rest of our skin. Therefore, they take on the red colour of the underlying dermis layer, which has lots of blood vessels.


    • What it all means

    What do these differences translate to?

    Their thinnest and lack of oil production means lips are very prone to dryness and sensitivity, more so than other parts of the face. That’s why your lips can be constantly chapped even though the rest of your skin is oily.

    Our lips need extra protection and moisture. You would think using any lip balm should do, but that isn’t always the case. Find out why in our next lips installment!

    Moisturising FAQs

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    Why do moisturisers break me out? Are hyaluronic acid products the best at hydration?

    Today we’re answering everything to do with moisturising.

    Why do most moisturisers break me out?

    These moisturisers contain oils/emollients unsuitable for you. These ingredients are often waxy or solid at room temperatures, giving a nice, smooth consistency. However, they can result in clogged pores for some people. Common examples are cetearyl alcohol, beeswax and shea butter.

    Are thick moisturisers best for dry skins?

    No. A thick product might be good at occluding (or blocking) the skin to reduce water loss. However, lasting moisturisation is about reducing water loss and increasing water content. The best moisturisers for dry skins have both emollients and humectants, which can be of any consistency, not just thick!

    Do I need to moisturise if I have oily skin?

    Yes! All skin types need water. Oily skins naturally produce a lot of natural oils. Thus they need moisturisers with plenty of humectants (that adds water), with minimal oils.

    Is water a useless/filler ingredient in moisturisers?

    Water is necessary for our skin to function optimally. Our skin gets water either from the atmosphere or products we use on it. Considering many of us are spend a lot of time in dehydrating environments (air-conditioning, heating), it’s essential that we get our water from topical products!

    Water is also an important solvent for numerous water-soluble actives and humectants. These humectants further increase moisture content of the skin by holding on to the water from the product itself or the environment. So, water is definitely not useless in your moisturiser!

    Are hyaluronic acid (HA) products best for hydration?

    Not always. Compared to other humectants, HA is able to hold a lot more water relative to its weight. However, HA is usually added at no more than 1% due to formulary limitations – at high amounts, it can cause separation of many types of emulsions and forms an unpleasantly thick gel in water. A humble product with generous amounts of glycerin can easily outperform another with HA!

    Is there a best time to apply moisturiser?

    Yes – immediately after cleansing. This is when your skin is saturated with water, allowing your moisturiser to lock all that water in. Additionally, product absorbancy increases when our skin is damp. Therefore, your moisturiser will work the best for you if you apply it very soon after cleansing.

    Do I need a serum before my moisturiser?

    Compared to most moisturisers, serums generally contain a higher level of actives. However, it’s what in serums that make them potent, not the type of product they are. Therefore, if a moisturiser already contains all the actives your skin requires, then additional serums are unnecessary.